Saturday, April 22, 2023

Species hunting adventures in South Korea: Busan.

Back on the South Korean mainland, we arrived in the city of Busan quite late and grabbing some instant noodles and snacks we headed to our hotel in the Seomyeon area. In the morning, we jumped on the subway and got off at Dongbaek. From there we went for a walk around Dongbaek Park to Dongbaekseom Lighthouse. My expectations for the fishing around Busan were pretty low, but when we spotted half a dozen anglers on the rocks below the lighthouse, I was slightly encouraged. I need not have been. Climbing down the rocks, so I could have a cast, we didn’t see them catch anything and I didn’t catch anything either.

It looked so fishy. There were banks of very long seaweed that made things tricky, but I fished in the gaps between them. After an hour or so, we headed back up to the path and headed towards Haeundae Beach.
Haeundae Beach is a very popular place in the summer when the water warms up. The sea around mainland South Korea probably livens up in the summer as well.

Halfway along Hueundae Beach is the Sealife Busan Aquarium, so we took the opportunity to get out of the sun for an hour or so and I reminded myself what a fish looked like. I had a feeling the fishing around Busan was going to be very challenging, and I might not see another fish.

These threadfin trevally were probably my favourite. They're so cool!

Carrying on along to the end of Haeundae Beach, I had a quick cast or two over the sand inside the small harbour there, but predictably caught nothing. We grabbed a potato spiral each to refuel and then caught the Haeundae Blue Line Train that follows the coastline north.

Spicy snack time!

We hopped off at the Cheongsapo Daritdol Skywalk, a glass floored platform that extends out from the cliffs seventy metres above the sea. Walking to the end of this and back to the station didn't take too long, and rather than wait for the next train we decided just to walk along the coastal path to Gudeokpo. I tried my luck fishing in the small harbour there. The water was crystal clear, but there was no sign of any fish. Dropping my bait in close next to the tetrapod blocks at the harbour mouth eventually produced a solitary fish in the shape of a sunrise.

Success! I'm not sure why they are called a sunrise. They should be called a greedy green gobbed goby if you ask me.
They have green mouths. I thought this one had a parasite in its mouth, so tried to remove it with my forceps.
It actually turned out to be a very long, half digested, pipefish that was almost as long as the sunrise! So instead of doing the fish a favour, I ended up stealing its last meal!

Happy to have caught something, we carried on along the coast until we reached Songjeong Beach. Taking a leisurely stroll along that, we ended up at Jukdo Park where we continued our ramble and soon arrived at the beautifully decorated Songiljeong Pavilion.

Painted in the tradition Korean style, like all the temples we'd visited in Seoul.

Before catching the subway back to Seomyeon, I had one last roll of the dice. Half an hour fishing around at the mouth of Songjeong harbour under its red lighthouse. Again, this did not produce any bites, so we headed off for a big pot of spicy kimchi stew.

Yummy!

The following day, I was determined to find some better fishing, so we caught the subway again and headed down to Diamond Bay Park. There were two other anglers already fishing when we got there using float tactics, so I did likewise. On a plus note, I spotted what I thought were small groups of darkbanded rockfish suspended under the long flowing seaweed. I also saw what looked like bream deeper down, at the base of the seaweed, occasionally rolling onto their flanks and giving themselves away with a silver flash. Neither could be tempted though despite my best efforts, so I admitted defeat, and we headed off for some lunch.

Lillian's choice of restaurant was pretty healthy and the food was delicious!

Being a glutton for punishment, we headed to Millak-dong Breakwater to try fishing from the large tetrapod blocks on its seaward side that face the impressive bi-level highway Gwangan Suspension Bridge. I'd seen someone catching a nice gurnard and a few other fish from them on YouTube but walking around there were several signs saying no fishing from the tetrapods. I get why fishing from them is dangerous, but the problem for anglers is that they are used in the construction of most harbours in South Korea, so that really limits fishing options.

I was planning on clambering down these tetrapod blocks.
Google Lens is great for getting bad angling news. £1800 is a hefty price to pay!
A heron clearly flaunting the law.

Frustrated, we walked further along the coast and up the Suyeonggang River where there were more tetrapods and no fishing signs. In the end, I gave up, and we headed to the subway, so we could go and pray for my fishing fortunes to improve at the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple further up the coast.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. The self proclaimed most beautiful Buddhist Temple in all of South Korea.

After throwing a few coins and saying multiple prayers, we walked along the coast and ended up in Dongamhang Port, a small fishing harbour. It was clearly a very busy harbour and there was lots of fish and seaweed drying out on lines and racks.

Drying fish and kelp.

Predictably, the fishing was tough again, but eventually I managed to catch a single goby. The Buddhist gods must have forwarded my prayers on to the Japanese God of good fortune, the ocean, and fishing folk, Ebisu, as requested. The coins we donated back at the temple had been a good investment!

This is a hairchin goby. It has little barbules on its chin. Another new species added to my tally. Thanks Ebisu!
This is Ebisu. The Japanese God of good fortune, the ocean, and fishing folk. The only God a desperate angler requires!

By now I had accepted that the fishing around Busan was limited and very poor. I told Lillian we'd be having a fishing free day the following day, but in the morning she said she wanted to ride a cable car that was near a "fishing park". My will power deserted me however, I just couldn't leave my tackle in the hotel when we set off! On the way to the cable car, we went for a stroll through Jagelchi Fish Market to assault our senses.

An incredible assortment of seafood was on display. Some familiar, some not.
Scabbard fish,..
...dried fish,..
...flower crabs,..
...sea pineapples...
...and weirdest looking of all, spoon worms.

Leaving the sights and smells of the market behind, we walked south until we reached Songdo Bay Station, where we took the Busan Air Cruise cable car across the bay. At the other side, we headed down the hill to the Amnam Park Embankment "fishing park". We needn't have bothered, after an hour or so I hadn't had a bite, and we didn't see anyone else catching anything either. By that point it was pretty much what I expected, so we didn't hang about any longer, I packed my gear away, and we caught the cable car back over the bay.

I think this is the first cable car I've taken over the sea.
The Amnam Park Embankment fishing park. Basically it's a raised area at the edge of a large car park by the sea with a railing running along it and a few containers for anglers to put their rubbish in.

On the way back to the hotel, we treated ourselves to a coffee and cookies and bought some expensive berries to try. Back at the hotel the rain began absolutely hammering down and showed no sign of stopping, so we popped to a nearby 7Eleven and got some instant noodles, kimchi, snacks and a few beers. Lying in bed, we ate, drank and watched Korean Fishing TV. My idea of a great night in! All the fishing on the shows seemed to involve charter boats or remote islands. Maybe the shore fishing is poor all year? Surely not?!

These mountain berries cost £9.00. They were delicious though!

It was still pouring down in the morning, so we were lazy and had a lie in. When we got up, the rain had eased off, and we decided to definitely have a fishing free day. Instead, we caught the subway and visited a fishing tackle shop, so I could try and get some Sunline Small Game braid. Afterwards we went for a stroll around some gardens on a hill. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom, which was nice.

Getting to the point. I've visited one of these stores in Japan before and they are great.

Mission accomplished! I replenished my stash with two spools and got a few packets of my favourite Thirty34Four Octpus Aji lures as well.

It was the peak of cherry blossom season in South Korea while we were there.

In the evening we went out for dinner in a Taiwanese restaurant where we enjoyed a large bowl of spicy mapo tofu and a few mango beers. Afterwards we had a few more drinks in a heavy metal pub before shooting a few racks of pool in the Star Billiard's Club.

Nice and spicy mapo tofu washed down with...
...a few fruity mango beers.
An impressive vinyl collection in the rock music basement bar.
Where did all the solids and the 8 ball go?

Finally, to end the evening off perfectly, we visited the Danakka Fishing Cafe, a cafe located in a basement with a large fishing pond inside where you pay an hourly rate to fish for carp, catfish and sturgeon and win prizes. 

 

Catch it all! Indoor fishing cafe.

I was looking forward to a fun, fishy end to our evening, but sadly it wasn't open as advertised, so Lillian got her fishing free day after all! Feeling slightly drunk, we headed back to the hotel for a few more beers and to do some drunken packing.

Our four days in Busan were over and the following day we were off to Gimhae International Airport to catch a short flight to Jeju Island. We'd enjoyed our stay, even if the fishing in Busan had been almost as bad as the fishing around Seoul. I guess in March, the saltwater shore fishing around the mainland of South Korea is just not very good due to the cold water temperature. I had my fingers crossed that the waters around the "Hawaii of South Korea" would be a little warmer and the fishing a little more productive!

Tight lines, Scott.

Click here for Jeju Island. 

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